Nibsburner Pyrography Systems and Pens - Nibsburner Woodburning Systems and Pens
Learn how to care for your Nibsburner pyrography, tip styles and uses, frequently asked questions and more.
Everything you always wanted to know about Nibsburner pyrography tools, pen uses, care, answers to all your questions and more. If I haven't answered your questions, please contact me.
Most of the information contained in this tutorial can be applied to most brand of detail pens but if you do not have a Razertip (Nibsburner or Optima burner), please be sure to follow the manufacturers instructions for cleaning the pens.
Care and Feeding of Your Nibsburner Brand Pyrography Tools
If you own a Nibsburner, Razertip. Optima or Colwood with polished tips you have come to the right place for help.
I use and sell the Nibsburner, Colwood and Razertip pyrography tools and pens so that's what I am going to discuss here but the same information also applies to the Optima brand of wood burning pens. First, let me start off by saying that the Nibsburner, Colwood, Razertip and Optima brand of pens do not need annealing before use. It is unnecessary and not recommended. Just open them up and burn away.
The Razertip and Nibsburner pen tips are made from a highly polished nickel/chromium alloy that is designed to flow smoothly over the wood and require less cleaning. These tips need very special care to preserve the finish and ensure its life. Although most brands of tips are made from a nichrome alloy, not all are the exact same proportions of nickel and chromium or processed in the same way. Some pens that are not polished will require cleaning more often than those that are polished. If you are using the Nibsburner, Colwood, Razertip or similar pens, you should probably only need to clean the pens once a day if burning at a moderate temperature on wood without resin or pitch. If you are burning at a high temperature on wood such as pine (not safe really) or on gourds and leather, you might need to clean your pens more frequently. When your burning starts looking muddy or the pen is starting to drag, its time to clean!
The photo shows the Nibsburner fixed-tip
pens which is primarily what I carry. Notice that the connection at the end of the pen is different than Razertip. It can be used on most major brands of burners with a different cord or adaptor although a cord is the recommended option.
Having a clean pen is essential for good burning. A build-up of carbon and other materials will hinder heat transfer and cause the pen to skip on the wood while burning. The ideal method of cleaning the polished tip wood burning pens is to use the cleaning tool made by Razertip or use aluminum oxide and strop it on leather or the hone strop described below.
If you care for the pens properly, they will last for years!
Happy Burning ©!
Proper Care and Use of Nibsburner Pyrography Tools, Handpieces and Polished Tips:
Nibsburner, Colwood and Razertip polished tip pens do not need annealing before use. It is unnecessary and NOT recommended to use any annealing process. Just open them up and burn away
If you can turn the burner down and still do the job do it! Your tips will last longer, you'll have more control, you'll get a cleaner burn, your tip wont build up carbon up as quickly, and its cooler on the fingers. The other advantage to burning at a lower temperature is that you will have more control over your burning!
NEVER use abrasive sand papers, etc. to clean fine detail pens!!!!
If you have a question that I haven't answered here, please contact me.
Frequently Asked Questions:
Q: What is the difference between a single output burner and a dual output burner?
A: This i an excellent question. There is one major difference and one that is something a lot of people don't even think about.
- The obvious difference is that the single only has one pen output and the dual has two. What this means is that on the dual output burner you can plug in two pens (one on either side) at one time and then you only have to flip a switch to change from one pen to the other
- The not so obvious benefit with the dual outputs (especially those I sell) is that you can have one side set up with an HD cord and the other side with a STD cord. Why is this helpful? Well, let's say you are using an HD cord with an HD pen such as a shader. Typically you will have the heat set a bit higher so when you switch to a standard pen, such as a writing tip, without reducing the heat the pen tip will then become poker hot. So, by having one side set up with a standard cord and one side with a heavy-duty cord you avoid the hassles of having to remember to change the heat setting when you change change from an HD to Std pen or visa versa
Q: My pens are not getting hot but the light on the burner is on what can the problem be?
A: Most often the problem is the cord. The first thing you want to do is ensure that the cord is connected tightly and is pushed in all the way. If it is and the pen is still not getting hot it could be the cord. If you have a 2nd cord try that one and see if it works. If it doesn't try plugging the pen directly into the burner and see if it heats up. If the pen gets hot then you know you have a problem with the cord. If the burner is relatively new it should be covered under the manufacturer's warranty and you should contact them for a replacement. If it is an older cord you can purchase a new one from my website on the main woodburner page for Nibsburner.
Q: If most of the wood burning pens are made from a nichrome alloy why and how is there a difference?
A: There are a lot of different 'Nichrome' alloys made, and different annealing/hardness options for each one, so each company may use a slightly different material. The difference is also in how they make their tips. Every company uses a different process for finishing their tips so the finish will vary from company to company. Some companies only offer polished tips and some offer unpolished and polished. The polishing process also varies with each company. The more highly polished involves a lot more work.
I started out using a Colwood woodburner and the original unpolished pens many years ago and found that they grabbed the wood and required more frequent cleaning. I also struggled with trying to improve my burning techniques but became very frustrated at being "stuck" in a rut and not being able to get past it. It was not until someone recommended Razertip and Optima pens that I saw the wonders of how great polished tips were and how much I could improve my techniques just by changing from an unpolished tip to a polished tip.
Polished tips burn smoother without grabbing the wood, remain clean longer and are easier to clean. This is not just my hype to sell the pens I sell, it's a proven fact. Just ask anyone who has tried two similar style pens, one unpolished and one polished and they will probably tell you the same thing.
Q: There are so many pens to choose from how do I know what to buy to get started?
A: Over the years I have always recommended people start with just 3 pens, a shader, writer and skew. With these three tip styles you can do just about anything. When I started using and selling Razertip burners and pens over 9 years ago they made some pens for me based on my requirements and specifications. Those have become my favorite pens and are now best sellers. Nibsburner is now making many of the same tips for me. They include my all time favorite the Bent Spear Shader, micro writer or Awl, and a round-heeled knife. While every artist has their favorites here are the pen styles I usually recommend:
Shaders: 5BSM OR 5BSSM. These are the most versatile shaders I have found. Because of their shape they can get into the tightest spots. I use the 5BSM for 95% of what I do, including fine detail work, fur, feathers, hair, undercutting, etc.
Writers: #4 OR new #4M . I have found to be the most versatile and the best overall performance. The new #4M is a Micro Writer made for me.
Skews/Round-heeled knives: KN1, 2 or 3. I like these for their versatility but my favorites are the new #14BM and #14B that Nibsburner made for me. Unlike flat skews, the round-heel makes them more maneuverable for doing curved lines and the new #14's are even more maneuverable than the #1,2 or 3.
My feeling is that more is not necessarily better. If you can do everything you need to with three pens, why buy more? I am not in this business to sell you things you don't need, it's my goal to help you make sound decisions based on your personal needs and budget.
Q: Do you actually use Nibsburner wood burning tools?
A: Yes, I have been using the Nibsburner about a year and tested every pen I sell. My favorite is the Best of Show because I can have each pen set at just the right temperature setting if I need to switch pens. It also has more power so when I am working on hard woods such as maple I have all the power I need. Several of the pens Nibsburner now makes were developed for me based on my specifications and needs. My exclusive pens are: 5 BSM & 5BSSM shaders; #4M Micro Writer; KN#14B & #14BSM; the 5NS and 5NSS spears and the new #4L long writing tip.
Q: There is a model burner and some pens I want that you don't carry can you get them for me?
A: Absolutely! I will have them drop shipped directly from Nibsburner and no extra charge.
Q: I want to switch out the pens that come with the burner, can I do that?
A: My favorite answer, ABSOLUTELY. Just add a note in your order which pens you want to substitute and no extra charge. I also recommend you contact me with a note regarding the change so I don't overlook the comment on the transaction details.
Q: Will Nibsburner handpieces fit on Optima and Colwood pyrography tools?
A: Absolutely, they are compatible with both brands without any modification or adaptors
Q: My pens are not working. The light is on and flickering but I'm getting no heat, what is wrong?
A: Often when you have a very tight connection the cord does not get plugged in all the way. This is one of the most common things I hear and the easiest problem to solve in most cases. Make sure your cord is plugged in all the way by gently pushing it down as far as you can into the burner and do the same thing with the pen side. If this does not solve the problem call me or Nibsburner.
Q: The tips seem to be loosing heat while I'm burning. What am I doing wrong?
A: It is normal for the tips to loose heat as you are working unless you allow the tip to reheat as you see the "color" of the burning lighten. You just need to lift the tip briefly from the wood allowing the tip to reheat then start again. If you are trying to burn a line, just make sure you put the pen down just behind where you left off so you don't end up with a small gap from where you stopped and where you start. These variable temperature burners only take a couple of seconds to reheat. So, the bottom line is, you are not doing anything wrong. This is normal and will happen no matter what burner you own.
Q: How do I know when it's time to clean my tips?
A: While it is not set in stone, a good rule of thumb is when your shading/burning starts to look muddy or you start dragging black carbon, it's time to clean! If you burn on higher temperatures you will need to clean more frequently. If you burn on materials such as leather and gourds you will also have to clean more frequently. Let your burning be your guide. Unpolished pens do seem to accumulate carbon faster than others even at moderate temperatures. The tips made with a polished nichrome alloy burn cleaner and do not build up carbon as fast when burned at moderate temperatures.
You will also find that when you burn on certain materials such as leather and gourds or at higher temperatures the tips will build up carbon faster as well.
Remember that keeping the tips clean is essential to clean burning and maintaining the life of the tip. So be sure to clean your tips regularly.
Q: How do I clean my tips?
A: Great question! I will address the proper procedure for cleaning wood burning pen tips that are polished. For pen tips that are
not polished please be sure to check with the manufacturer for their recommended methods of cleaning the tips.
If your tips are heavily caked with carbon I recommend you start with a single-edged razor or the Razertip tip cleaner and gently scrape off excess carbon. You can do this while the pen is hot or after it has cooled. For the next step be sure your tip is cool. Once you have cleaned off any excess carbon use a strop (leather or composite) with aluminum oxide powder.
I tend to burn mostly on clean woods that are free of oil so regular cleaning with the strop and aluminum oxide is all I need to keep my tips clean and carbon free. When burning on gourds or leather I start with a single-edged razor.
How to use the strop and aluminum oxide:
Make sure your tip is cool. Add just a TINY pinch of aluminum oxide to one edge of the strop and run the tip across the powder just a few times, then on a clean area of the strop run the tip over the clean area to remove the remaining powder and gently polish the tip. You need to do this only a few strokes. I then wipe it on my denim jeans (you may want to get a patch of denim to keep on your 
work area) to clean off excess polish. Remember your really just polishing, so you don't need to try to remove all the discoloration. These tips stay cleaner than many other brands so if you are burning at a moderate temperature on wood you can probably burn longer between cleanings. If you are burning on gourds or leather you will need to clean more frequently.
If you need extra help cleaning off carbon and using the aluminum oxide and strop don't remove all the carbon, gently scrape it with a straight edged razor. That should remove all excess carbon.
When burning on gourds, leather and certain woods you will probably have to clean the tips more frequently.
Remember that proper cleaning maintains the life of the tips, makes burning easier and your finished burning cleaner and keeps them in factory-new condition. If you clean the tips regularly you will not have much difficulty maintaining them.
Q: How often should I sharpen my pen tips, and what should I use to do it with?
A: Usually, only once or twice a year depending on usage. An overnight soak in oven cleaner can sometimes take off heavy carbon deposits, but be careful that you do not soak the brass or silver solder (read the directions for your oven cleaner to see what metals it will safely clean). To determine if your tip needs to be sharpened or "re-honed", examine your tips under a magnifying glass. If the edge of the tip looks rounded or there is not a well defined angle, you could probably re-sharpen the tip. BTW, over buffing (using a "leather power strop" wheel for example) will prematurely lead to the metal "rolling over" the edge, causing your tip to get kind of a rounded edge. To sharpen your pen, use a fine stone, (or if need be, 800 or higher grit wet and dry sand paper). Sharpen your pen tips at a 30 to 35 degree angle. Do NOT sharpen them at a sharper angle, as you will then carve too deep, and have problems in the painting stage of your carvings. After sharpening polish with the aluminum oxide polishing compound on a strop.
Q: Do I need to anneal my pens?
A: Some brands do recommend it but you should NEVER turn your power supply on high to "anneal" pens with polished tips. This will just lead to premature oxidation, and may damage some of the smaller standard style tips. My pens are ready to use right out of the plastic tube.
Q: My tip is a bit too sharp and needs to be bent a bit more. Can I do it myself?
A: Yes, you can. If you want to "modify" a pen, such as the Bent Spear shader, you would need to buff the lower edge of each tip so that it is rounder using a felt buffing wheel and buffing compound. You can then re-bend the tip angle using a smooth-jaw pliers. It is best to bend it cold - just be gentle and don't bend too quickly. Despite what some people say, you should NOT bend the tips when they are "poker hot".
Q: How can I make the tips last longer?
A: To make your tips last longer: NEVER use sandpaper of any grit to remove carbon. For best results, longest tip life, reduced carbon build-up, and maximum comfort, always use the lowest heat setting that will do the job. Burning at lower temperatures will keep carbon build-up off of the tip in the first place, and keeps the tips from oxidizing. Put your pens back into their pen tubes after each use, a pen tip hitting the floor is the most common type of tip damage. Stick a small amount of foam or Styrofoam into the pen tube's cap if you are transporting your pen a lot. I have seen these tips last over 10 years, when properly cared for!
Q: The tips on some of my pens keep breaking, what am I doing wrong?
A: One of the most common problems I hear about is this. This is a common problem with people who are heavy handed, new to burning or use too much pressure on the pens, especially if you have been using a single temperature burner and upgrade to a detail burner. Keep in mind that you do not need a death grip on the pen, lighten up on the grip and let the pen do the work. But even if you haven't done any of this and your pen breaks remember it comes with a warranty and even after the warranty runs out you can still have your tip fixed or replaced.
The other common problem is that many people just burn with the tip rather than the entire edge. Be sure to use the edge and do not use a lot of pressure. Let the pen do the work.
Q: Should I get interchangeable tips or fixed-tip pens?
A: Excellent question! I recommend and sell the Nibsburner fixed-tip handpieces. Fixed-tip handpieces operate cooler than interchangeable-tip Pen. Also, because the tips are welded in, they provide better control for more precise burning. Interchangeable-tip Pen are designed primarily for intermittent or short-term use. They require regular maintenance to work effectively. Every 6-8 hours of use (or more if the pen is malfunctioning) the wire tip (connector) should be removed, cleaned with steel wool or ScotchbriteTM pads, bent at the back of each tip post, and re-inserted so they fit as snug as possible.
Thee other reasons I do not recommend or sell interchangeable tips are: They are inconvenient to change and a non-welded tip can have bad intermittent conductive properties between the nichrome tip and the brass carrier. These conditions are high heat, electricity, and two dissimilar metal alloys (a very bad combination for preventing corrosion).
Although some brands have friction fitted "brass to brass" connectors, they too will eventually suffer from corrosion, and eventually, have poor intermittent conductive properties. Razertip interchangeable tips are changed by inserting the tip wires into screws and tightening them which can be a nuisance when you have momentum going on a wood burning project. Some brands such as Colwood require that you use a tool to pull them off which can also be a nuisance.
Q: Some of my pens get very hot and burn my fingers?
A: Because our art form involves using heat to make images and detail, our challenge is always to get as much heat to the tip as possible (good heat) without that same heat building up in the pen and affecting the fingers (bad heat). Every user has different needs and will therefore have a different experience. Posting problems & possible solutions on forums like this are great ways to share information and I am always interested to see the many creative ways people go about overcoming challenges. Hand piece heating is a much more complex issue than most people realize, and there are many factors that go into how hot your Pen
gets.
These are a few suggestions to help ease the pain!
- Don't hold the pen close to the tip. When holding the pens, move your hand back slightly away from the tip. The closer your hand is to the tip, the hotter it will be.
- Work at an angle. Try working on a drafting table or one of my pyrography tables. This not only keeps the pen cooler but it is more comfortable and will help prevent carpal tunnel syndrome.
Here are a few factors concerning the "hot fingers" issue:
- Power and current. Hot-wire tools are designed to operate with a primary voltage of around 115-117 volts. If your wall voltage is higher (say 120-125 volts), you'll get more heat at the tip. More heat at the tip usually means a hotter pen body. All hot wire burners convert the wall voltage to a lower output voltage. Razertip power supplies drop the voltage to 2 volts or less. Razertip pens are designed to operate at 2 volts or less. Some burners (i.e.: Detail Master and Burn Master etc.) operates at around 3 volts. This gives them more power, but can be problematic for Pen
and cord heat. Razertip pens tend to get quite a bit hotter on the fingers when used on a 3 volt power supply. They perform best on a Razertip power supply. It is generally true that most pens will perform best on their own power supply. - Operator technique. I always recommend using the lowest heat setting that will get the job done - in other words, if you can turn the heat down and still do the job, DO IT. In addition, hold your pen at an angle so the heat from the tip can rise into the air, not into the pen body and your fingers. Moving your fingers back a bit from the tip can help sometimes, too. If you must use high heat settings for long periods, I recommend getting a second pen and switching back-and-forth when one gets uncomfortable. This will be easier on your fingers and on the pen and tip. In the long run it will be less costly as your pens and tips will last longer. Also if you ever damage a tip and need replacement you have a spare to use while the damaged one is being repaired.
- Operator sensitivity. Some people have very sensitive fingers. The original standard pens some people would complain after a short period of time that the pen was uncomfortable yet other people had no problems. Now both Nibsburner and Razertip have come out with new vented pens to keep the pen handle cooler. Yes, the vented pens can still get hot on the fingers, but they take much longer to heat and they cool very quickly. It is interesting to note that some users, like me, use Razertip and Nibsburner pens for long periods without hot Pen
concerns while others experience discomfort. Another possibility is that I use a lighter touch with my pens and as I tell my students, "you don't need a death grip on the pens". Let the pen do the work, not your hands. - Pen/tip design and construction. Nibsburner has very deliberately chosen the design and material for their pens and tips to give us the best performance possible, taking into account the primary intended use for the tools. Their tools are primarily for finesse and delicate work. The solid-tip burners, such as the Wall Lenk and Walnut Hollow are intended for the heavy work and compliment a hot-wire tool or as refer to them as detail burners. Different tip types heat differently. tip length is also a factor in pen heat. The longer the tip, the cooler the pen. Nibsburner and Razertip makes their tips the length they are because that's what the customers have wanted. They like working close to the burning surface. They can make tips longer and have done so on request. The thicker grip can help, too (see below for information on removing and replacing the grips). Testing has shown us that cork and closed-cell foam have similar insulative properties, with uncompressed foam performing better than cork. However, some users grip their pen tighter than others, and in compressing the foam grip, reduce its insulating abilities. If you can loosen your grasp on the grip it may help. Also when grips get old or have been used a lot they flatten out and should be replaced. Most of my customers have indicated that they prefer the foam grips, but if cork works better for you then go for it. One word of caution, whether you use a glove, or cover the pen with something to insulate it: don't let the pen get too hot or you may damage it internally. Give it a regular chance to cool.
- The pen cord can also make a big difference. Nibsburner makes a light duty 18 gauge (I do not recommend or sell), standard (super-flexible) 14 gauge cord for regular work, and a HD 16 gauge cord for heavier work. The HD cord is always your best choice for hotter burning and here's why - When burning, you have to consider two heat factors: Ambient tip temperature is the temperature of the tip when it's not in contact with the work surface. Working temperature is the temperature of the tip when it is in contact with the work surface (i.e.: wood). When you use a heavier 16 gauge cord it is possible for more electrical current to flow to the tip, resulting in not only more tip heat, but in faster tip heat recovery. In order to burn at, say, 700 degrees operating temperature, you would require an ambient temperature of perhaps 900-1000o with an 18 gauge cord, but only around 750-800o with a 16 gauge cord. The 16 gauge cord will not only perform better, but will result in the Pen
staying cooler for a longer period. However, it's a bit heavier to hold, and there are times when a slow tip heat recovery is actually desirable (certain shading techniques for example) and an 18 gauge cord is preferred. I don't carry the 14 gauge cord because it would be mostly used by children who will burn at lower temperatures. - Ambient air temperature, humidity, and air movement can all affect pen heat. Working in a hot, stuffy room with high humidity, your pen will get hot faster than if you're working in a cool, dry room with a bit of air movement. You might also use a small fan to "pull" air away. Finally, there is always the possibility that there is something wrong with a pen or tip. Contact Nibsburner directly if in doubt.
- One way of keeping the handpiece cooler is to work at an angle such as a slanted table like a drafting table. I also recommend using a cooler temperature and layering until you get the depth of tone you want to achieve. This gives you more control and preserves the life of the tips by not using excessively hot temperatures.
Q: I use a Detailmaster burner and my pens get too hot what can I do?
A: The Burnmaster (and Detailmaster) woodburner operates at 3 volts instead of the 2 volts that most other burners operate at. This means they have more power (not necessarily good or necessary) and because of that many brands of pens (such as Optima, Razertip, Colwood, and some Nibsburner, etc.) will get hotter when used with either of these burners and can burn out the tips. You can do a number of things to help keep the pens cooler.
- Reduce the heat setting on the burner to avoid burning out the pens.
- You do not need to do anything on the Burnmaster but you will need to use an adaptor cord to connect the Nibsburner pen to the burner.
- Burn at an angle so that the heat is deflected away from your hand.
- Use a pen that is vented.
Q: What do you mean when you say they perform better with an HD cord?
A: They heat up quicker and run cooler on the fingers with a HD cord.
Q. My burner won't make a dark mark on wood until its set at "5" or higher? Why?
A. Nibsburner burners are designed to give a very broad range of heat. The lower half of the dial is used for waxes, plastics, or for detailing wood without leaving a brown mark. The top half of the dial provides enough heat to scorch wood. It is possible that if you have the burner set at a mid range such as "5" or higher and you are not getting any heat there is a problem with the burner or cord. Before contacting Nibsburner try plugging the pen directly into the burner and set it at "5" or higher and test it on a piece of scrap wood. If it is making a "dark mark" then the problem is with the cord. If you still aren't getting the heat to the pen call Nibsburner and discuss the problem with them.
Q. Sometimes my burner works great at a certain heat setting, and the next day I have to use a different setting to get the same burn. Why is this?
When the voltage from a wall plug changes, the temperature of the tip will change with it. Nibsburner burners are set to perform optimally at their rated voltage. I have seen wall outlet voltages vary by over 20 volts. Wall outlet voltage can change depending on time of day and demand on the system especially in some geographic areas where there is a problem with low voltage.
Q. What is the main difference between the single output and dual output burners?
The power unit is basically the same except that he dual output allows you to connect two pens at the same time (they cannot be used to burn at the same time) but all you have to do is flip a switch to change pens. If you have the Best of Show it has two heat controls so you can set each one separately so when you change pens the temperature is already pre-set to the temperature you need.
Broken, damaged or defective burner, cords or fixed-tip?
Don't worry! Nibsburner tips are one of the most durable hot-wire tips you can buy and warranty covers them for 90 days of normal use. In spite of that, it is possible for them to break or wear out. If one of your tips breaks after warranty, Nibsburner can be replaced for the cost of the tip.
If you find a pen not heating, try plugging it directly into the burner before calling Nibsburner. It's possible the problem is actually in the cord.
If you have any problem with your pen or burner please contact us first so I can walk you through some steps first. If I cannot resolve your problem, I will have you contact Nibsburner before shipping it back to them. Often times they can diagnose the problem over the phone. Their number is 719-576-8686
If you are returning a pen to Nibsburner please contact Nibsburner before returning any burners or pens.
If you have been told to return a burner or pen to Nibsburner, please ship them to:
Nibsburner LLC
1330 Tonka Ave
Colorado Springs, CO 80904
719-576-8686
Do not send damaged or broken burners, cords or pens to us.
They must be returned to the manufacturer.
Choosing the right tip style
I hope that the guide below helps you choose the right Nibsburner pens for your needs. This guide will show you some of the things you can do with these pens. It's not always easy for people to visualize in their minds what can be done with each pen just by looking at the photo and description of possible uses. The description of uses is also just a guide and not necessarily all that you can do with each one. The bottom line here is EXPERIMENT and have fun!!!!
I will start with the most popular pens (shown with an asterisk) that I sell and the most versatile. I will then work my way down through many of the other pens by Nibsburner. Many of Nibsburner's tip styles are available in a variety of sizes.
Keep in mind that everyone burns differently and that's fine because if we were all the same it would be a very boring world. They have different styles of burning, prefer different pens and this is just a guide, not the final word on what's good for you. I was taught in art school not to outline my work because there are no lines in nature and I don't outline but instead use my shading to create the natural edge. I prefer using the bent spear shader because it's more versatile but others prefer the spoon or round shader. It all boils down to what you prefer and what works for you, not me or the next guy! Don't take my word for it or someone else, try it yourself, experiment and make your own decisions.
I might also add here that I recommend fixed-tip pens rather than interchangeable tips. There are several reasons: fixed-tip pens get you closer to your work so you have better control; you get better heat distribution; fixed-tip
pens are easier and faster to change and interchangeable tips are primarily intended just for intermittent burning. Since I cater to pyrographers who use burners on a more regular basis I primarily sell the fixed-tip pens.
You can see all the pens on my website. Click here to go directly to my Nibsburner pen store.
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Tip Styles and Their Uses
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5BSM & 5BSSM Bent Spear Shader. This is my all-time favorite pen and it is the pen I use for just about everything I do. It is pretty versatile and because of its unique shape you can get into tight corners and every nook and cranny and do all kinds of things with this pen. The 5BSM is the medium bent spear shader and pictured on the top left. Other than working with miniatures, this pen can be used for all your shading needs. For smaller areas and miniatures try the 5BSSM pictured on the bottom left. I You can also see from the photo on the top right that I have created an "edge" The middle right photo shows how you can draw lines using the edge of the pen and vary the thickness depending on the angle you hold the pen. The bottom right photo was done using the tip of the pen. Just be sure you do not dig into the wood when you do calligraphy with the tip. The block letter on the right of the sample was outlined using the tip and then shaded inside using it as a shader. |
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 Fig 1 |
#KN Round-heeled Knife. these pens actually comes in three sizes (Fig 1 is KN1 large, Fig 2 is KN2 Medium and Fig 3 is KN3 Small). I prefer the KN2 because it is the most versatile so I don't need to have more than one round-heeled knife. My philosophy has always been more is not necessarily better, just more money! This pen is great for a lot of things. It does beautiful curved lines, calligraphy and can even be used on the side for shading. Experiment and have fun! New to the KN tips are the new KN14B (Fig 4) and KN14BM (Fig 5) which are similar to the # 14D made for me by Razertip and the HD14SM photo bottom left. These newest additions are my all time favorites. Because of their blunt heels they are even more maneuverable than the original KN tips and I think you will find them even more versatile. The photo on the top right shows me doing curved lines rolling the pen in my fingers to achieve the curve; The middle photo shows a sampling of calligraphy and shading (using the side of the knife); the bottom photo shows cross hatching, a feather and pointillism (done with the tip of the knife) |
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 Fig 4 |
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 Fig 5 |
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# 4 & # 4M Writing Tip. You can see in the photos that I have done lines on top and then |
#4 above ~ #4M below
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| # D Chisel Tip.
This is available in several sizes (shown are the D, DSS). These are used for pyrography, cutting and detail work depending on the size. The The top and middle photos show two styles of shading done with the skew, hatching and cross-hatching. Varying the lines will give you deeper or lighter shading. The closer together the You can see the lines on the bottom are clean and crisp but it's not as easy to do curved lines with this skew as it is with the KN's |
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# AWL. The Awl is available in round and sharp and can be used for so many The round tip might look like the writing tip but it is finer. Great for fine lines, for indenting around the eye ring of a bird, signatures and plaque work.
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# SQ Shader. This shader has a slight curve, giving it greater access to corners where round tip |
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| #SP Spoon Shaders.
The spoon shaders come in small and medium. The SP1 is
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| # 3 & 3 1/2 Spade. These are very versatile. The #3 spade tip is designed with a cutting edge on both sides. It combines some of the qualities of the chisel tip and the round tip. Handy for gourders when fading away from corners. Instrumental for feather and hair detailing. The #3 1/2 has two different burning surfaces. One side is sharpened as a chisel tip and the other side is left dull for a heavy blunt line. Designed by Nibs and Sue Waters. Great for gourds. | ||
# 5NS & 5NSS. These are made especially for me. This small spear (5NS) is a smaller version of the #5 and is perfect for fine detail work and a favorite with gourd  artists. It is a perfect for getting in to tight spaces and working on small pieces, like tagua nuts and fine detail work on gourds. It is similar to the Razertip F5S and is one of my best sellers. The edges on these are sharpened to burn a nice crisp line. The smaller version (5NSS) is perfect the smallest pieces such as miniatures. |
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