I started dabbling in gourds
back in 2000 after discovering a gourd farm near where we lived in Texas.
I didn't know much about them back then
but they offered a unique medium for pyrography. Little did I know
at the time that there were artists all over the country burning and
decorating gourds. It seemed that most were merely using a burner to
outline the design and then paint, stain or dye the design. I
figured I could probably do some really nice designs on them just with a
woodburning tool so, I did some experimenting with my burning tool.
My first creation was a bowl
gourd using a Petroglyph design of New Mexico mimbres style figures.
Living in New Mexico
for
many years was already starting to influence my art and would continue to
do so.
I had no idea what I was
doing at the time but I used this gourd as a means of experimenting with
different techniques on the gourd.
Since I was trying to create
an "old" look to this gourd I left the gourd "mottled" rather than trying
to cover it up with pain, dye or stain. The designs at the top were
created with a single temp burner and a detail burner with different tips
for the other designs.

I used a writing tip (Colwood "C" or the Razertip 9S) for most of the designs to create a
textured look and a spear shader (Colwood "E45" or the Razertip "HD5MP") for other parts of it such as the heart design
on the lizard. It was a simple and a rather easy gourd to do and when
I finished my website in 2002 I put it on the site. Al was still
working for the VA and he let some of his friends in Washington DC know of
the site and within a matter of days I received a message from someone
wanting to buy that gourd. Still in my recuperative period it was a
real boost to my self-esteem and it inspired me to go on and do a few more
gourds.
A word of caution, if you are going to use any
color on your gourd do it AFTER you do all of the woodburning. It is
not safe to burn over paints, stains, dyes or varnish (any kind of finish
for that matter). Paints and finishes have chemicals in them and
burning over them can cause health problems. So do all your burning
first and then you can color to your hearts content.
Cleaning the woodburning
pen tips
One of the most important
things you must do when burning is cleaning the tips on your woodburning
pens. Nothing will ruin a pen or your burning faster than dirty
tips.
If you have a single
temperature (craft style) burner with brass tips you can use a brass
brush to gently clean the tips. Brass is a soft metal so don't get
too over zealous when you do this. You can also use a straight-edged
razor to scrape off the heavy build-up of carbon. Clean frequently
when working on gourds so you don't get stray sparks from the carbon.
If you have a detail
burner, such as Colwood, Razertip, Optima that have polished tips
you should start with a straight-edged razor to clean off the excess
carbon and then with a COOL tip you can use a strop and aluminum oxide to
polish. DO NOT do this while the pen is hot. Clean frequently
when working on gourds so you don't get stray sparks.
For detail burners that do
not have polished tips please follow the manufacturers instructions for
proper cleaning.
How to clean your detail
burner tips:
I'm always asked how to
clean the tips and it's a great question. I will address the
proper procedure for cleaning woodburning pen tips that are polished.
For pen tips that are
not polished please be sure to check with the manufacturer for their
recommended methods of cleaning the tips.
If you tips are heavily
caked with carbon I recommend you start with a straight-edged razor or
the
Razertip tip cleaner
and gently scrape off excess carbon. You can do this while
the pen is hot or after it has cooled. For the next step be sure
your tip is cool. Once you have cleaned off any excess carbon use
a strop
(leather or composite) with aluminum oxide powder.
I tend to burn mostly on
clean woods that are free of oil so regular cleaning with the strop and
aluminum oxide is all I need to keep my tips clean and carbon free.
When burning on gourds or leather I start with a razor.
How to
use the strop and aluminum oxide:
Make sure your tip is
cool. Add just a TINY pinch of aluminum oxide to one edge of the
strop and run the tip across the powder just a few times, then on a
clean area of the strop run the tip over the clean area to remove the
remaining powder and gently polish the tip. You need to do this
only a few strokes. I then wipe it on my denim jeans (you may want
to get a patch of denim to keep on your
work
area) to clean off excess polish. Remember your really just
polishing, so you don't need to try to remove all the discoloration.
These tips stay cleaner than many other brands so if you are burning at
a moderate temperature on wood you can probably burn longer between
cleanings. If you are burning on gourds or leather you will need
to clean more frequently.
If you need extra help
cleaning off carbon and using the aluminum oxide and strop don't remove
all the carbon, gently scrape it with a straight edged razor. That
should remove all excess carbon.
When burning on gourds,
leather and certain woods you will probably have to clean the tips more
frequently.
Remember that proper
cleaning maintains the life of the tips, makes burning easier and your
finished burning cleaner and keeps them in factory-new condition. If
you clean the tips regularly you will not have much difficulty
maintaining them.
Safety and Transferring
patterns to gourds
Since I have gotten back
into gourds and participate in a couple of online gourd forums I hear all
kinds of things. Some great tips are given but others leave me
shuddering in disbelief.
A couple of those tips I
feel it necessary to discuss here. Since I started teaching
woodburning I have always stressed the importance of safety and when it
comes to burning on gourds it's no different.
Press and Seal
Recently I started hearing
people recommend using press and seal (a plastic wrap) to transfer
patterns. I thought this was an interesting idea and helpful because
it adheres to the round surface but when I heard that people are actually
burning through it I almost fell off my chair. Let me add mention
again that Press and Seal is PLASTIC. This is made from chemicals
and is NOT intended for burning and it is NOT safe.
Many years ago when someone
started teaching her students to burn on acrylic (PLASTIC) mirrors I
contacted a manufacturer of plastic materials to discuss the safety of
burning on plastics. His first response was "what are you crazy".
Those words still ring in my ear. I have reported all of his remarks
regarding this issue on many forums over the years and to this day this
lady is still teaching her students to burn on acrylic (now she refers to
them as Lucite and safe even though Lucite is PLASTIC) mirrors. What
that man said was that if plastic in any shape, form or name is burned it
will emit toxic fumes. So my question to you is this...is the ease
of transferring a pattern that important that you risk killing yourself?
Masking tape
The other aid to
transferring patterns I have heard about is masking tape. Well I
have been using masking tape for years to attach my pattern but never
considered burning through it. When I heard that people again were
doing it I had to check this out too. Sure enough when I called 3M
they basically gave me the same response and said that it is safe when
used as suggested by the manufacturer only as a means of adhesive.
So, again I ask people why would you want to burn through tape which has
glue on it and can cause health problems?
When I started teaching the
gourds kind of took a back seat to other obligations but now that I have
some time I have been asked to help others learn more about gourds.
Gourd Decorating Tutorial
For more general gourd
decorating help please go to my tutorial,
Gourd
Painting and Decorating Tutorial. I will be talking about things
such as ink dyes, paint and many other things other than burning on
gourds.
Happy Burning©!
Nedra
More Coming Soon!
COPYRIGHT INFORMATION
No portion of the printed
book "Pyrography 101" or the web pages containing "Pyrography 101"
tutorials may be copied, reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted
in any form or by any means without prior permission of the publisher and
copyright owner.
Material from this site may
not be, in part or in whole be distributed, redistributed, published,
republished, copied, reproduced, altered or modified and sold or otherwise
made available to others in any form for any purposes whatsoever.
Updated 11/3/08